I saw this older lady the other day while I was out body surfing one of the wedges around North County. She was probably about 50 years old and was going for these crazy waves that were violently sucking up dry sand. I remember taking a mental photo of this particular wave she caught, thinking to myself, “I don’t think I woulda gone on that one!” She would come up with the biggest exhilarated smile ear to ear with sand coming out of everywhere! I just thought she was the coolest. This is what I saw.
See more of Jose’s amazing work on his website, and see a gallery of his work here
