Leap. Photo: Courtesy of Swell Lines Magazine
Go…go now…feel the Ocean.
Go when it’s walled and closed out.
Go when it’s windy.
Go when the tide’s not right and the sun isn’t shining.
GO!
Soak it up.
Feel it in your muscles and bones and soul.
Feel the groundswell.
Pulsing groundswell.
Energy delivered from the mighty sea.
It is limited. Fleeting.
It comes and goes…but when again?
Minutes? Days? Weeks? Months?
Hoping soon…
Swim, swim harder.
Fatigue your shoulders, and back and legs and lungs.
Fatigue your brain with incredible sensory stimulation.
Swim, swim harder.
Ride 4 waves in a 6 wave set.
Float- hyperventilating.
Our bodies need oxygen.
A little deprivation is good for appreciation.
Catch your breath…or not.
Next set…do it again.
Chase the pit, fight the drift…exhaust yourself.
Go experience it now.
Swim. Take sets on the head. Swim hard.
Chase a heaving, maxed closeout.
Take off. Take off late. Go.
Force your eyes open. Watch. Enjoy the view.
Get pitched, Go over the falls.
Held down, deep, feel it.
Flips and twists. Twists and flips.
Underwater waterfalls.
Feel the pressure change as the Ocean surges past.
Immense fluid force. Power. Feel.
The Ride after the Ride.
Lungs scream, Pounding heart…total cardiac activation.
Swim. Burst through the surface gasping.
“Woo!”
Cherish the foamy air.
Then Go back out again.
This article originally appeared on Swell Lines: The Bodysurfing Magazine. See more of their work by visiting their website, SwellLinesMag.com.
