Royal Robbins, one of the greatest climbers of all time, who in 1957, among many other history-making ascents, first climbed the Northwest Face of Half Dome, died on Tuesday at the age of 82.
Robbins’ passing was confirmed on the website of his eponymous clothing company, which said that he died “after a long illness.”
Throughout the 50s and 60s, Robbins forged one of the most impressive climbing resumes ever, including the first ascent of Half Dome’s Northwest Face, the second ascent of The Nose on El Capitan, and numerous other groundbreaking climbs of big walls in North America and Europe. His ascent of Half Dome is considered the first big wall climb ever.
In 1967, with his wife Liz, who survives him, Robbins climbed a line at Yosemite using only removable nuts. The line, which the duo dubbed Nutcracker, is sometimes cited as the first route done completely “clean,” using entirely removable gear like nuts. Robbins and Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard became convinced of the importance of eschewing the use of pitons and other fixed gear that scars rock forever. The two are credited with kickstarting the clean climbing revolution, among the most important developments in modern rock climbing and mountaineering.
Generations of climbers have followed in Robbins footsteps, or rather, footholds and handholds, on the many climbs bearing his name in Yosemite Valley and other cliffs and mountain ranges. To repeat his routes is often a lesson in his climbing prowess, made more impressive by the primitive climbing footwear and equipment of his day. Just as impressive, and often lost in his rock climbing prowess, were Robbins’ incredible whitewater kayaking feats as he explored some of the Sierra’s toughest runs in archaic fiberglass boats with the likes of Chouinard and North Face founder Doug Tompkins and Reggie Lake.
Robbins is vividly profiled, as is his rivalry with first ascencionist of The Nose, Warren Harding in the climbing film “Valley Uprising.”
