Gerry Lopez, Pipeline, December 29, 1967. In the zone. Photo: Tim McCullough
“The road of life is long and it’s a hard road, but it’s our road. It’s a road we all must go down, and we must do this on our own, nobody else can do it for us. Where do we find the balance to follow directions and keep our wheels on the road?”
In this clip from Wanderlust, Gerry Lopez explains that the parallels between surfing and yoga run deep. They both require sharp awareness, connection with one’s environment, and most importantly, they both require the individual to remain completely in the present. Although Lopez speaks as a lecturer, the clip has almost a meditative quality that allows the listener to focus inward. Most poignantly, he discusses how in moments when we are perfectly connected to the flow of the ocean or perfectly connected with the flow of our breath, we are able to be truly vulnerable. As Lopez puts it, “This is when we are, maybe only momentarily, open.” Wise words, Mr. Pipeline. Wise words.
