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As good a time as any. Photo: Holladay Photo


The Inertia

By now, you’ve probably seen pictures of Bethany Hamilton surfing at six months pregnant. She also tow-surfed Jaws just six months after childbirth. They say it’s never too late begin, but is surfing really a hobby that you should embrace for the first time after seeing those two little blue lines? My blooming body says yes. In fact, after a few false starts with surfing – temper tantrums, cancelled lessons, and rows with my husband – my pregnancy had an unexpected consequence: I’ve fallen in love with surfing for the first time. Here’s why.

1. You lose your competitive streak. Well, it lessens, at least. My husband tried to teach me to surf for two years, which rarely ended peacefully. My inner perfectionist would have a tantrum because he always made it look so easy. Finally, at 30 years old, that’s all changed. I’m more patient now. I froth in the small stuff, growing a tiny little human in the white wash while he surfs out the back in the bigger surf.

2. Land activities aren’t as appealing. In the past, I’ve never surfed regularly enough to really improve because my schedule was busy with other forms of exercise. But now that I’m pregnant, certain workouts just aren’t as comfortable. I get too hot hiking, gym classes are too regimented, and I have an odd aversion to the smell of my yoga mat (*retch*). Surfing feels cooling, refreshing, and freeing on my aching, changing body. Plus, a wetsuit is way better than a sports bra for keeping your blossoming boobs in check.

3. You have an excuse to suck. Having a bad day? Miss a wave? Lose your balance? You don’t need to blame the equipment. Blame your unborn child and cut yourself some slack. Interestingly, I’ve found that I’m far better at surfing now that I’ve stopped trying so hard to be good . Now that I’m expecting a baby I have no expectations of myself in the water, and I have far more fun out there because of it.

4. You surf to suit your body. At nearly five months pregnant, my surfing style is… adaptive. I paddle with my bum slightly up in the air to take pressure off my belly. And when my boobs are sore I have to arch my back a little. My technique isn’t orthodox, but at least I’m listening to my body and learning to work around my situation. I also head to the shore when I’m tired rather than trying to be the last woman standing, which means I finish on a high note rather than an exhausted wobble.

5. You’re totally present. As a pregnant surfer, you’re never on autopilot because you have a tiny person to think about and protect from harm. Whether it’s smoothing your dismount to avoid belly flops or watching the horizon so you don’t get a rude shock, now when I’m surfing I’m 100 percent connected to the moment rather than half thinking about my to-do list or what color to paint the nursery.

6. There’s no queue for the bathroom. Every pregnant woman and her overactive bladder will appreciate this one. As someone who currently spends a large portion of her life hunting for a toilet, let’s just say the ocean has one very big benefit.

 
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