writer, photographer

The Inertia

The energy surrounding surf contests has been shaky this week (to put it lightly). With the seemingly never-ending flow of pumping waves coming to a sudden halt, the energy on the North Shore, specifically, was a bit… slow. 

Until today. And that’s why what happened at the Billabong Pro Pipeline was so surprising: no one could have predicted the entertainment that occurred in the water. While far less people flocked to this contest than the Eddie, and with tumultuous skies above, Ehukai Beach was still absolutely packed and the energy was immense. From the Banzai Skate Park almost all the way to Sunset Beach, the road was lined with everyone’s rides, from beaters topped with rocker-y, yellowed thrusters all the way to fancy convertibles. Just getting down to the beach was a spectacle. 

Each dirt path to the famous beachfront was crammed almost all the way across with bikes, and people milled around on the paths with binoculars and their phones, craning to get a picture of Joao Chianca and Jack Robinson battling it out in the semifinals. I stood behind a small group of older surfers talking quietly to one another, their faces weathered with the familiar, deeply engrained crow’s feet when they chuckled. I thought they’d be complaining about the waves, but they seemed not to care. They spoke only of scores and surf maneuvers, and I was impressed at their dedication to the moment and to surf history. 

They were the calm before the storm, however, as descending down the stairs into the tightly packed crowd was an obstacle in itself. It was Carissa Moore and Tyler Wright dueling it out for the yellow jersey, and the local crowd was (mostly) rooting for Carissa. She’s an impressive and inspiring presence on the North Shore. Just a night earlier, I watched her rip Sunset, I mean some really radical turns. I passed her as she got out of the water, a fierce, dedicated energy about her as she quietly disappeared into the parking lot as the sun went down. 

Their heat was action packed, and the commentators weren’t about to let anyone win without some drama. Moore’s and Wright’s long history was discussed, but when they finally announced Carissa Moore as the champion, the beach exploded with cheers. People ran down to the water where Carissa got out, positively beaming from ear to ear. You could feel her joy, and everyone else’s, as she was hoisted onto shoulders and carried, victoriously, down the beach, throngs of people crowding in her wake. 

The last heat of the day was Jack Robinson against Leo Fioravanti and there was a lot on the line. Fioravanti had the chance to become the first Italian champ. Jack Robinson had the chance to get the biggest title of his career so far. The heat was somewhat slow, and at times, the surfers attempting Off The Wall seemed to be having more rides than the pros. But even with the untraditional aesthetic of wind chopped peaks and murky waters, spray was thrown, carves were made, and both surfers, of course, showcased speed, power, and flow. When it was announced that Robinson was champion, the crowd almost unanimously rose to its feet and chased him out of the water. 

The wind was so strong Jack’s hat got knocked to the sand, and it was a near ordeal. Once he got his hat back, happy chaos once again ensued, and the world had its winners… the battle begins again next week just down the road at Sunset, and both of today’s victors have plenty of practice over there. 

 
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