I need to decide whether I should surf in the morning or in the afternoon, then surf both - just like yesterday. I need to forget what day of the week it is. Photo: Weisberg
I need to shake off this winter slumber.
I need to wake up to blinding sun shine first thing in the morning.
I need that smell of summer, part coastal sage, part hot asphalt, part surf wax.
I need to call the surf report and hear for the 100th time, “There is a south west swell running from 2 to 3 feet.”
I need my hair to bleach out to snow white with the consistency of dry straw.
I need to wonder how many days the water temperature will stay above 70 before plunging down to the chilly 50s with the arrival of a big south swell.
I need to wear the same clothes, trunks, flip-flops and t-shirt until people start asking if these are the only clothes I own.
I need to decide if I am going to surf in the morning or in the afternoon, then surf both just like yesterday and the day before.
I need to forget what day of the week it is.
I need to go to the surf movies and know the California crew by first name, the Hawaiian crew by surfing style alone, and think to myself “Hey, I was out that day!” at least several times during the movie.
I need to quit my job because, “This could be the biggest swell of the summer!” and they can’t give me the time off.
I need my significant other to tell me that I am getting too much sun and that I really need to apply more sun screen.
I need to surf so many days in a row that I seriously think about taking a day off, and then don’t.
I need to order a new board at the beginning of summer and have ride it enough to think of it as my old board and then order another one.
I need to be surfing just before dark and think to myself “Just one more wave,” and spend another hour and a half in the water.
I need it to be summer.
