Greg Long, Mavericks. Photo: Seth Migdail
“Epic films and party vibes with a conscience.” That is how I would sum up the annual Save The Waves Film Festival pilgrimage around the US. The Save The Waves Film Festival is moving on to Brooklyn this week, and it promises to top last year’s event, which was a pretty epic event itself. Save The Waves Film Festival program is made up of smart and creative films that challenge our known perception of surfing.
One of the films highlighted at this year’s festival is a short by master photographer and filmmaker Patrick Trefz called, “Into the Mind of Greg Long.” The film gives an in-depth and candid conversation with Greg Long on his motivations and reasons as to why he chases some of the largest and most terrifying waves on the planet. The film also explores Greg’s methodical approach and the careful and meticulous preparation that goes in to catching these waves. The film leaves you with a sense that this pursuit to ride the largest waves known to man is far more calculated and measured than many would have thought. I was lucky enough to have a brief conversation with Trefz on his latest project and his craft.
How did your latest project “Into the Mind of Greg Long” come about?
After Greg’s almost fatal wipeout at giant Cortes Bank, he dealt with a lot of fear and wasn’t quite sure if he was able to make it back mentally to face 60-foot monsters. He was staying at my house in Santa Cruz, telling me about it all. He told me that he spent six weeks in the Peruvian Andes sitting with shamans to overcome his near-death experience. I asked him if he would be interested to do an interview about his experience, sort of like a Carl Jungian train of thought piece. He agreed and, on the next trip up to Santa Cruz, we sat down in front of a fire and recorded the audio in multiple takes.
You seem to be drawn to surfers who are closer to the fringe of the mainstream of surfing. What are the challenges of working with and representing these surfers in your films?
I think it is mostly who I surround myself with and what sort of people I meet on my travels. I have known Greg for more than fifteen years, and it seems a natural fit that we are working together. We are both inspired by similar things: the great outdoors, traveling off the beaten path, getting away from it all to come back with a fresh perspective on life and ideas, etc.
Do you ever worry about misrepresenting the surfer or what they will think of your final product?
No, I do not think that would be the case. I work very closely on all aspects with my subjects. There is a lot of back and forth communication. To quote the legendary documentary filmmaker Albert Maysles: “Relationships of trust and mutual respect with subjects, helping them tell their story, this is the most important thing in documentary filmmaking.”
You seem to be a master of not only the action shot but the quieter and more sentimental moments of surfing. How do you find the right balance in your films with the action and the more emotional and sentimental aspects of surfing?
Surfing can be a very deep personal experience – moments in one’s life that are unforgettable. Time stands still in those moments. Somehow I try to bottle it up and preserve it, make it available for the big screen to share those sentiments.
What are your thoughts on the Save The Waves Film Festival?
It’s a great cause and I have been working with them for awhile now.
Will you be coming to BK for the next screening?
Maybe! I am flying out to the Basque Country, trying to get tickets through New York right now.
The Save The Waves Film Festival will be at The Lightspace Studio in Bushwick, Brooklyn, this Friday night, November 14th. Doors open at 7PM with live music from Slothrust.
The Save The Waves Film Festival will be in Brooklyn at Lightspace Studios on 11/14, and San Francisco at the Victoria Theater on 11/21. These events are proudly presented by Pacifico Beer, Patagonia, Clif Bar, and The Inertia, with support from Ocean’s Halo, Sanuk, Dos Toros Taqueria, Sunski Sunglasses, Escape Campervans and Rise Swimwear.
Reserve your tickets today at savethewaves.org/filmfestival.
