It takes a lot for someone like Nathan Florence to say a wave was ” more than we wanted.“ That’s because the waves he wants are often waves that 99 percent of the rest of the world would be more than a little hesitant to surf. The waves he surfs are back breakers. The shallowest, heaviest slabs. Waves that want to bury you at the bottom of the sea. Like this South Oz slab.
The video you see above was filmed during the same swell that busted Dylan Longbottom’s ribs and wrecked his lungs. It was not a day for the faint of heart, but those are the days surfers like Longbottom and Florence live for.
“What a psycho session!” Nate wrote. “I don’t know if it shows, but this spot is legit very scary. Some waves you’re scared but you push. This spot felt like you only want a few and then to go in and be safe! Hope Dylan heals up! Three broken ribs and punctured lung, one wipeout and that happened!”
