It was 4 a.m when I woke up. By 4:20, we were on the road, and by 5, we were in the water. The sunrise was beautiful–the reef sits just beneath a few feet of crystal clear water. There is magic everywhere you look.
For two straight days, the waves were pumping. The surfing was incredible–it was a show full of technique, precision, and straight courage. And while the crowds showed up along with the waves, there were less than a dozen people really surfing it.
If you know the spot, don’t call it. We want to keep it as it is, and if you’re visiting, show respect for the locals–the real locals.
Pura vida from paradise!
