Jhanitra Gavala, in full research mode. Photo: Jhanitra Gavala
Surfers who spend time at crowded breaks get an education in surf rage and localism. But Jhanitra Gavala, a psychologist in New Zealand, is getting a PdD in the subject. Gavala, 42, a surfer of three decades, is the first to take an academic approach to understanding what many surfers have seen or felt in the water. (By the way, he just returned from three years in Bali and, yes, even surfers in The Land of Smiles get nasty.) We talked to him about emotional immaturity, the positive aspects of localism, and a concept — let’s call it the “rage ratio” — that could explain where and when surf rage is worst. And for your information, when he gets dropped in on he gives the offending surfer a warning. If it happens again, well, what goes down next depends on his mood.
What led you to study surf rage?
I recently spent three years in Indonesia with my wife and two kids, where I saw all the many versions and variations of etiquette and surf rage. It was a big eye opener. Surf rage can have massive impacts on bystanders and lifeguards who’ve had to give people first aid. Once we understand it, we can look at ways of mitigating it, and get people back to enjoying the stoke of surfing.
Jhanitra Gavala. Photo: Jhanitra Gavala
How are you going to research it?
I’ve done a literature review of localism and surf rage, mostly in news media and anecdotes like in Nat Young’s book, “Surf Rage.” I’m going to visit many surf breaks around the North Island to interview surfers who’ve experienced surf rage and localism. I’ll interview men and women, the elderly and the young, and get the best understanding I can, then select some participants to give psychometric tests, looking at levels of stress, depression, and possibly their emotional intelligence quotient. Basically, how people deal with their emotions. What I’ve seen in the literature and from friends is that people who blow up are emotionally immature, agressive, and stressed.
What factors play into surf rage?
I’m going examine if there are universal traits within surfers who blow up. Can we attribute it only to personality, or do environmental factors play into it? Like size of the crowd, infractions of rules and etiquette and different types of waves — point breaks, rivermouths, reefs. We’ll see some interesting things when you consider the environmental factors and how they interact with personality traits in various communities. There’s a carryover of the stresses of modern life. Some people can unwind in the ocean, others can’t and it boils over.
What’s the rage ratio?
I want to figure out if there’s a tipping point at which the number of surfers in the lineup compared to the number of rideable waves causes conflict. The individual personalities in the lineup have a massive impact as well. You could have a mellow surf in the morning, then the tide changes and a new crew is out in the afternoon, and it’s chaotic. You also have to factor in the level of surfers and the types of surf craft.
How does etiquette play into it?
Locals tend to break the rules but expect others to abide them. We have to be consistent with our own actions.
Why does surf rage exist?
Humans generally like to demarcate areas as their won. Once they do people get territorial, and if that territory is encroached upon, you want to protect it. If someone’s exploiting it and not giving back to the community, it’s like, “Hang on. Who are you?”
What does it tell us about ourselves?
It shows us how fragile we are. And it’s a reflection of the struggle of our daily lives, the pressures we feel. I surf to unwind and enjoy the experience, and if I’m well rested and in a good mood and someone drops in on me, I brush it off. But I’m not always like that.
Do you think mitigation is possible?
It’s tough because there are so many variables. People can model the right types of behavior, particularly when teaching new surfers. I want to highlight the positive aspects of being a local and taking care of your home break, because only locals can make longlasting changes to the local culture, it’s got to change with the individuals. Government regulation wouldn’t resolve it.
Two dudes just givin’ someone sumthin’ to study.
