The Inertia contributor Mary Mills channeling Greenough. Photo: Ken Samuels
How Could You Not?
I watched them surf for hours,
Just sitting and watching from the shore
Wave after wave,
They rode the waves beautifully.
They rode the big waves with strength and courage,
They rode the little waves with great care and grace,
And how they gently stroked the round insides of the hollow ones,
It was obscene!
And when they paddled in
I asked them,
“How could you ride those waves
On a mat?”
They smiled and replied:
“How could you not?”
