March 13, 2011 saw a macking Jaws, hungry as ever — and as expected, Archie Kalepa was chompin’ at the bit to pay a visit to his old sparring partner.
Back in the early days at Pe’ahi, or Jaws, in around 1999, you didn’t have to wear life jackets. And it was on one of those days that I experienced my closest near death experience.
It wasn’t a really big day maybe 15 feet, maybe 12. I think it is more dangerous when it’s smaller out there because you’ll be deeper — and next thing you know you get caught inside, or you are less cautious, which is what happened to me. It was getting late, and back then it was just a few guys out there anyway. I kept saying, “One more wave, one more wave.”
Then it came.
I remember I was trying to be playful on the wave. But then BAM, I took one right on my head. The impact and force was so great that it pile drived me to the bottom. Now remember, no lifejackets back then.
I had my eyes wide open. Everything was completely black. I remember looking around. It was black, all 360 degrees, and it was swallowing me whole.
I remember taking 20 or so strokes to try and break the surface. After doing that and not seeing any signs of light — basically not knowing if I was even anywhere near the surface — I stopped. I remember talking to myself: “This is not good. This is not good. This is not good.” I didn’t panic. I don’t know why I didn’t panic, but I didn’t. I just stopped.
I still had my eyes wide open. Everything was still completely black. And it was in that moment that I had this peaceful conversation with God — it was one of the most peaceful experiences I have ever had.
At this point, I had reached the four-minute mark since being cut off from the air supply above. And at the four-minute mark, I was still under water. I remember taking another 20 strokes. Still no light. Yet something told me not to give up. So I fought through 12 more strokes. It was finally getting brighter! A short time later, maybe another 15 strokes, I broke the surface.
The rescue patrol converged on me. I could barely hang on. Looking up, I saw the guy who came for me crying.
They pulled me to the side, out of the line of fire, and Darrick Doerner drove up to me on a ski. He said, exasperated: “Archie, when the sun hits the west Maui mountains, we’re done. When the sun gos behind the mountain, not much time is left to look for you!”
A few weeks later, I had time to reflect on everything and truly evaluate what happened, as well as what Darrick said. Buzzy Kerbox told me that I was under a three wave hold down, and they all thought that was it, I was a goner.
It is often the near death that give you new life. Photo: Courtesy of Archie Kalepa
Ever since that whole experience, my perspective has changed. Evolved, really. Every time I surf out there, or any break or place that I feel was dangerous, I pay more attention to who is around me. Those are the most important people in your life at those big, telling moments — your team and situational awareness, which ultimately should go hand in hand.
And as a result of holding strong to more intense training and increased preparedness, I’m in the best shape of my life. So with all that in mind…
11 Must-Dos for Charging Monsters
1. Train. Then train again. And train some more. Make sure you’re including a lot of cardio.
2. Yoga is really, really, really good for you.
3. Learn CPR, an absolute must for big wave surfing. It’s a small community, so we need to keep each other safe.
4. Take a lifeguarding class. Take a first aid class. And keep up with refreshers and opportunities to learn the latest techniques.
5. Work with other big wave surfers — this is people around you in those act fast scenarios — to have a plan when surf is dangerous. ALWAYS HAVE A PLAN, you don’t want to be thinking one up as you or your best friend is swirling underwater.
6. Prep, check, and know your equipment. While those around you are the most important people in your life at those big, telling moments, your equipment is equally as important. Don’t be figuring it out on the run. A Pe’ahi bomb is no place to test equipment you’ve never familiarized yourself with before.
7. Take any classes that will minimize you being helpless in an underwater or hold down type of situation. Breathing exercises are huge, and take deep water free dive courses from the pros when the opportunities present themselves.
8. If in doubt, don’t go out.
9. Know your limits. Know when to say when.
10. Look for knowledge in others that have been in those situations before.
11. Most of all, trust your instinct. If you have properly prepared yourself, then you’ll know what to do — and that is the goal for everyone involved.
It’s a lot more fun and rewarding when you’re with people you trust, and that includes yourself.
Archie Kalepa is OluKai Konohiki. Make sure you check out what he and the Hawaii Lifeguard Association are working on by visiting Olukai.com.
