Last week, Keala Kennelly did the unimaginable by letting go of the rope on one the heaviest, thickest Tahitian mutant waves we’ve seen in a long time. She didn’t make it out, but that ain’t all that important. What matters is that she made the conscious decision to commit to the dark, ominous line as it crept in from the horizon—even after the same reef had nearly ripped her face off just years prior. And what’s equally profound is how she seemed to have surfaced with her head and limbs still intact. Crazy, right? Oliver Kurtz seems to think so. Just look at his facial expression.
