It all begins with a plan. Photo: David Zimmerman
After the New Year, I decided it was finally time to expand my quiver. I had been talking about it for awhile, then finally pulled the trigger on a new shralp stick. This ups my quiver to three boards (probably significantly smaller than most people reading this right now).
I knew that some kind of surf rack system was necessary to keep my boards clean, out of the way, and most importantly, safe. There’s nothing worse than finding your board on the ground when you get home from a long day of work, with a huge dinger in the side. After researching countless DIY surf rack videos, and going to a myriad of surf shops to see how they do it, I realized that I was going to need to design this one myself. The main goal was to make an efficient surf rack system while keeping the design simple.
The process began with a few sketches (it’s always easier to visualize a project when it’s down on paper). If you go to Home Depot without a plan, you could be stuck there for hours, and walk out in a worse state than you were before you walked in (trust me, I’ve been there). After solidifying the plans, I put together a checklist of the materials I needed. See below for the tools and materials list that I used. Note that these plans can easily be altered based on your home/apartment size and number of surfboards you own.
Tools:
• Power Screw Driver
• Variety of Drill bits
• Miter Saw or Skill Saw (if you want to make cuts at home)
• Box Cutter
• Level
Materials:
• (4x) 2×4 x 10’
• (1x) 1” plywood
• (8x) 1.5” wood screws
• (20x) 3/4” wood screws (box of these)
• (20x) 2.5” wood screws (box of these)
• Carpet/astro turf- 24” (these usually come in 10-12’ rolls, you can use pieces of the excess for a surf mat for changing on the cement)
• (5x) 12” round rods (you’ll want bigger rods for bigger boards. I used a 1” circumference)
• Permanent Marker
Cut List (Home Depot can cut these for you):
2×4’s:
•(4x) 24” long
•(2x) 60” long
•(1x) 40” long
Plywood:
• 12×40”
Step 1: Build the Sides
This step is easier with two people, to help hold the 2×4’s in place. I was able to finagle it solo, but definitely could have completed the project quicker with a little help.
You’ll want to put the two 60” 2×4’s on top of the ends of two 12” 2×4’s. This should create a 90º angle and an “L” shape. Screw two screws into the bottom of each 12” 2×4 to hold the 60” 2×4’s in place.
Step 2: Build the Base
Stand up the two L-shaped side panels far enough apart so you can attach the 40” 2×4 to connect the two pieces at the bottom. Drill two screws into each 12” 2×4 with the 40” piece sitting on top of the end of each L-shaped side panel.
Step 3: Measure and Cut the Turf
Place the piece of plywood on the roll of turf with the carpet-side facing down. You will make less cuts if you line up the plywood on the corner of two sides of the turf. Cut the remaining two sides of the carpet along the plywood so that it fits flush. It’s okay if the turf is a little larger than the wood, you just don’t want it smaller.
Step 4: Attach the Turf
Lay the turf flat on the plywood with the carpet-side facing up. Use your 3/4” screws to attach the turf to the plywood. Only use screws around the edges, you don’t want screws in the center (these could get in the way of the rods on the next step). Don’t overdo it with the screws, just enough so the turf sits flush and won’t move.
Step 4: Measure and Make Pilot Holes
Measure out 5 marks equidistant from each other right in the center of the turf/plywood. For this design, each mark should be 10” apart. Use your permanent marker to place the marks on the turf-side.
Use a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the 1.5” wood screws to make pilot holes through the turf/plywood. You’ll want to drill these pilot holes directly into the marks you made earlier on the turf side. Don’t drill from the plywood side, it could mess up your turf.
Step 5: Attach the Rods
Having a friend for this step could be helpful, as well. Hold the first rod against the first pilot hole on the turf. Make sure the rod is straight, and that your are grabbing well above where the screw will penetrate. Use your 1.5” screws to screw directly into the pilot hole from the plywood side. The screw should go through the center of the rod and hold it tightly in place. Repeat for the four other rods.
Step 6: Attach the Back Panel
Use your 2.5” screws to attach the back panel. Place the back panel about 8” below the top of each 60” side panel and attach with two screws on each side (one screw above and below the middle rods). Make sure to use your level on this step to ensure a straight and tight fit of the back panel.
Photo: David Zimmerman
Step 7: Attach Supports
Here’s where your friend can help again. You’ll notice that your surf rack may be leaning forward or backward a bit. This is where the supports come in play.
Jam a 12” 2×4 into the inside of each right angle of the L-shaped base. Have your friend hold a level on the first base while you adjust the 12” support until it reads level. Have your friend hold the base in place while you screw in the support. Put two 2.5” screws at the bottom and top of the support and into the side panel. Repeat on the other side.
Photo: David Zimmerman
Step 8: Proudly Display Your Quiver
Enjoy your new surf rack. Now grab one of those boards and hit the shralp!
