Almost everyone who has experience in surfing XXL conditions has experienced at least one near death surfing experience. Photo: Yoann Segalen
It was one of the most definitive moments of my surfing life, as well as hands down the most terrifying. On a solid double overhead day with occasional larger sets, I experienced a hold down that pushed me to the limit. Having logged in nearly two decades of surfing experience at my home break, I was as comfortable in the water there as I was in my own bed at home.
On this gray winter day, I was humbled to the point of a feeling a complete loss of pride in my ability to compete in XXL conditions with my peer fellow alpha members of the pack in our lineup.
About the time that would normally have been mid-session, I caught an outside set wave that I rode until the point where it closed out, and glided euphorically out the back of the wave. The momentum of the wave pushed me north and a little out to sea, in relation to the peak that I had surfed in the direction of. Immediately ecstasy turned to a creeping dark fear, as I found myself in no man’s land, too far out to paddle in to shore and too far in to make it past a fast approaching horizon lifting set of the biggest waves of the day.
The first wave of the set broke about ten feet in front of me. I had already generated as much speed as I could and was beginning my duck dive, with my board gripped tightly in my hands. Instantly I was driven deeper and deeper until I came to an abrupt stop with my back firmly placed against the sandbar bottom and my surfboard pressing me down, with the pressure of the water not relenting nor allowing for my release. At this point, although scared, I did not panic, because I knew panic would not help. Finally after what felt like forever I felt my board slowly beginning to rise. I quickly pushed off the bottom, and began kicking my feet and legs as quickly as I could. Suddenly the darkness of the water, and the realization that I was running out of air in my lungs sent me into the panic and realization that this might be it. Someone will have to tell my wife and my mom that I passed away doing what I loved most, that my daughter was going to have only faint memories of who her daddy was, and that my sons were going to grow the be men without their own father’s love and guidance. I was almost completely out of air, and was almost to the point of having to inhale when the water began to become lighter. It still seemed forever, but I finally reached to surface in time to take a quick breath, and take another wave on the head. This time my board was released from my grip, I do not remember if I let it go, or if it was stripped from my hands.
Fortunately, I was pushed so far in by the first wave that the strength of the second wave was only sufficient enough for a moderate hold down, but my body needed air in the lungs and quick. Luckily, I found myself at the surface again and had a moment for a couple of deep breaths, and time to gather my board.
I laid on my board, on the inside close to shore break, for a few minutes slowly paddling into the waves, not trying to paddle out, just holding position deciding what to do next. Should I turn around? Paddle in and call it a day? Or should I use my years of experience and safely position myself in the lineup for one more wave? (The old get back on the horse analogy).
After a few more minutes of holding position, grateful prayer, and regaining my thoughts and energy, I found a lull and a channel out, and made my way out to the lineup. I patiently waited an extremely long time way out the back for a perfect opportunity and set wave, and rode a wave all the way in to the beach.
Everyone who has experience in surfing XXL conditions has experienced at least one near death surfing experience. However, most of these close calls go not only unreported, but they are largely unknown due to ego, absence of witnesses, and/or lack of being news worthy (unless noteworthy for some reason).
Within a few weeks of each other both Greg Long (Cortes Bank December 21st) and Mike Parsons (Ocean Beach San Francisco January 20th) experienced near drowning’s in XXL surf. Both Greg and Mike are widely known for their big wave surfing accomplishments, as well as for their great attention to safety, detail and risk assessment.
My experience cannot come close in comparison to that which Greg and Mike recently lived through, which makes me all the more respectful and envious of the amazing amount of talent, knowledge and strength that these, and all other big waves surfers have attained.
