I am an avid believer and follower of dawn patrol surf sessions, catching each sunrise and each sunset whenever I can. So I drive to my local breaks – San-O, Blackies and Doho – in my 1979 VW bus, camera in tow, to capture the beauty of SoCal’s longboard surf culture.
There’s something about surfing that absolutely calms the soul, heals the heart and eases your mind. It’s changed my life in more ways than I ever thought possible.
